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Black and White, and Red All Over

10.23.2017 by Tracey //

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Hello Everybody! Long time, no see. When I was trying to figure out what to write, I was thinking about all the reasons that I could list that would explain the big gap since my last post. I started to mentally scroll through my excuses, and almost immediately I thought of a long-time family friend who once commissioned my sister for a painting. When he called to check in about her progress, she proceeded to tell him why the painting wasn’t finished, to which he replied, “I don’t want to hear about your problems. This is business.” What is lost in reading this, is that this man is one of the funniest people I know, and his delivery of this line was made with the most perfect comedic precision. It’s a line that we imitate and repeat frequently in our family, indicating, yeah, we’ve all got problems, now get on with it. And we always laugh when we say it.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Thinking about our family friend calls to mind the many times that we attended New Orleans Saints football games in his Superdome suite. Many of those games were during the “Aints” era when we couldn’t win a game to save our life! In the midst of our collective depression about our repeated failures, our group would be zinging some of the most hilarious lines anyone has ever heard.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Now I know losing a football game is not the end of the world. But humor has helped me to process bigger tragedies as well. A few years ago, my grandfather passed away and it was a particularly difficult loss for me. But I can’t think about his funeral and how hard that day was without also thinking about my brother’s eulogy which was so funny that it actually elicited whoops from the congregation.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Like Truvy says in Steel Magnolias, “Laughter through tears is my favorite emotion”. There’s something about the contrast between those feelings that sharpens them both and somehow makes them even more meaningful. Life is complicated and I know I’m going to feel bad some of the time. The only way to get through it is to go ahead and feel it completely. But when I can also laugh in the middle of it, what a great gift that is.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Pattern, Tessuti Sadie Slip Dress

Fabric, Silk Chiffon, B&J Fabric

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Now let’s talk about this dress. One of my goals of 2017 was to make a garment out of silk chiffon. Nothing like trying chiffon for the first time and cutting on the bias. The good news was that I could use the stripes of the print to stay on grain. The bad news is that I would need to match the side seams and create a perfect chevron shape with the meeting of those stripes. I did a pretty decent job with the matching, but I’ve got one side seam that is ripply (is that a word?) and one side that’s smooth. Learning curve! The dress pattern is the Tessuti Sadie Slip Dress and I am in love with this pattern. I made a size small with no adjustments except for fiddling with the length of the straps. Just to jazz things up, I added the ruffle at the bottom. The ruffle strip has a stay stitch at the bottom, hidden in the print pattern, and left unhemmed so the fabric will unravel a bit the more I wear it. I left the top part of the ruffle with a raw edge as well for a deconstructed look.

Sadie Chiffon Ruffle

In closing, my heart goes out to those who are dealing with the aftermath of hurricanes, earthquakes, or fires. It’s been an intense season of natural disasters and a particularly difficult time for many people. My thoughts and prayers are with you.

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // Chiffon, Sadie Slip Dress, silk, Slip Dress, Tessuti Patterns

A Thread Through Time

09.12.2016 by Tracey //

Liberty and Lace Top

Liberty and Lace Top

Liberty and Lace Top

Pattern, Alice Top, Tessuti Patterns

Fabric, Liberty Lawn Print, B&J Fabrics

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

When I was 5 years old, my family moved into my great grandparents house. The large old place was pretty much as my great grandfather left it, which meant it was filled up with the most amazing collection of history you can imagine. It was common to unearth antebellum ball gowns, World War I bayonets, and every National Geographic magazine probably since their inception. My sister, my brother and I spent loads of time exploring closets and armoires, searching for treasures, and we found plenty. Looking back on it now I realize it’s the stuff of children’s novels, as good as finding a hidden door to a secret garden.

Those treasure hunts were formative experiences that I’ve carried with me throughout my life. Whether I’ve been working to preserve historic architecture or photographing abandoned buildings, preservation plays a big role in who I am and what I do.

What we leave behind and what we carry forward matters. It’s no different in the world of sewing. Making clothes is rich with history and tradition and as I continue to grow as a designer and sewist, I understand the importance of bringing the older skills to my current era. This top represents my first attempt at heirloom sewing.

A while ago, my friend Anna took me to visit her mom Ashley who is an incredibly talented and accomplished heirloom seamstress. To be able to look at and handle the garments, gowns, and bedcovers she created was such pure joy for me. But the gift didn’t stop there. Ashley no longer sews and she very VERY graciously decided to pass on her beautiful stash of fabric and lace trim to me. I’m still overwhelmed by her generosity.

At first I was intimidated about using anything from her stash because whatever I made could never rise to her level of expertise. But eventually I realized that the best way to honor Ashley and her gift to me was to use what she gave me. So this sweet top was made with a whole bunch of gratitude and a respect for the traditions of sewing. Heirloom sewing can use a variety of techniques but for this project, I tried out pintucks and lace insertion.

In keeping with our historic theme, it seemed only right to apply the same thinking to our photography. Santiago made the images above with a pinhole attachment on his digital camera. An act of bringing together the old with the new. Because there was no lens and merely a tiny pinhole, the exposure was two minutes long. Meaning I sat still, not moving for the entire two minutes that the camera was capturing the image. The “soft focus” comes from the nature of the pinhole and my micro-movements during the exposure. I’ve heard that when people had their portraits taken long ago, they were strapped into a chair to help them to stay still.

(For more detailed and sharper images, scroll down.)

That’s it for this week. Look for another post on October 5. It’s gonna be a good one with the very first Featherstitch Avenue giveaway! See you then.

Liberty Alice Top

Liberty Alice Top

Alice Top, Back

Alice Top, Detail

Categories // Garments, Tops Tags // Alice Top, Heirloom Sewing Techniques, Lace Trim, Liberty Print, Pinhole Photography, Tessuti Patterns

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I'm on a journey to become a fashion designer but I've got some stuff to learn along the way.

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Images by ©Santiago Vanegas Photography, unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.

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