Featherstitch Avenue

Style and Couture Sewing

  • Garments
    • Dresses
    • Jackets
    • Skirts
    • Tops
  • Sewing
  • Style
  • Photos
  • About Us
  • Contact

Worth The Wait

02.26.2018 by Tracey //

Embroidered Lace Ziggi Jacket

I’m a parent of two kids and like a lot of other parents, I’ve read my fair share of parenting books.  We parents want to raise healthy, confident children. And to do that, many of us have been heaping praise on our developing kids to ensure that they will feel good about themselves. So it’s no surprise that reading the chapter in the book Nurture Shock by Po Bronson and Ashley Merryman called The Inverse Power of Praise hit me like a ton of bricks. Basically it says this: if you are always telling your children how smart they are, it can have a unexpected negative effect on them. Children who internalize that they are smart (or talented or whatever adjective you are using to praise them) find that the next time they are presented with a challenge they are less likely to try.  Why is this? Well, it’s because now the stakes of failure have become too high.  If they don’t succeed, it must mean that they aren’t smart at all.  It might mean that they will lose their parents approval and the stream of steady praise that they have become addicted to will dry up.

Ziggi Jacket, Back

Let that really sink in. These so-called “smart” kids think they have to get it right on their first try! How crazy is that?!  I think it goes without saying that I immediately began to re-think how I was praising my kids. But I also began to wonder how much we adults may have absorbed this kind of thinking.  I wouldn’t say that I was brought up in an era that praise was as prolific as it is now. But I do have to admit that for whatever reason, I have unreasonable expectations of myself.  As a kid, I was naturally good at school and athletics but as I got older and my world expanded, things got much harder. I couldn’t rely on natural abilities. If I couldn’t do something well pretty early in the process, I would actually feel embarrassment and humiliation, and would be reluctant to try it in the future.

Ziggi Jacket, Detail

But here’s the good news for the kids being raised in this praise-heavy world and for grown-ups that are hard on the themselves.  The study goes on to say that kids that are praised for effort, not innate abilities, are much better at taking on new challenges. If you are praising the specific work or focus they are bringing to the task then what is communicated to them is that they have some control over the result. They learn that if they keep trying that they can succeed. They learn that the brain is a muscle and with consistent workouts, it gets better and better. And they learn that failure is not a declaration that they are dumb. Mistakes are simply what happens on the way to mastering something new.

Arabia Mountain and the Ziggi Jacket

Over the years, I have been complimented on my sense of style. So when I took up sewing a few years ago, I figured that I would be making garments that were my style and creating things that I would love to wear right out of the starting gate. I could not have been more wrong! At the end of sewing project after sewing project, I would be left with something that didn’t feel like me at all. The temptation was to think, “I suck at making clothes”, but the thing was (and is) that I LOVE to sew. Because I enjoyed the process so much, I kept going in spite of the fear that I would never make anything that was any good.

Ziggi Jacket

Luckily for me, the passion for sewing was able to override those crazy internalized expectations that I’d be good at it right away.  And with each project, I’ve gotten better. And I’ve gotten better because I’ve put in a lot of time and energy. I’ve set challenges and failed miserably. It’s because of that effort that I feel particularly proud of this jacket. Not because I’m some natural born Alexander McQueen (which, duh, I’m not), but because this jacket represents persistence. According to Bronson and Merryman, “People with this trait, persistence, rebound well and can sustain their motivation through long periods of delayed gratification.” If this jacket doesn’t represent delayed gratification, then I don’t know what does! It took years to get here.

So here’s the takeaway. If you are beating yourself up for being no good at something, try re-parenting your inner child. Give yourself a big pat on the back for showing up and making an effort. Be persistent, and know that gratification is coming, even if it is delayed.

Ziggi Jacket

Pattern, Ziggi Jacket, Style Arc

Top Layer Fabric, Embroidered Lace, Dolce and Gabbana, Mendel Goldberg Fabrics

Bottom Layer Fabric, Reversible Wool Satin Faille, B&J Fabrics

Lining, Silk Crepe de Chine in Blush, Mood Fabrics

Riri Zippers, Pacific Trimming

Photographs and Video by Santiago Vanegas

Arabia Mountain and Ziggi Jacket

Let’s get in to the details of the jacket.  The pattern is the Ziggi Jacket by Style Arc.  I’ve been wanting to try this pattern for a long time and have seen some really amazing makes that others have done.  My favorite is Leisa’s.  I was in Susan Khalje’s workshop with her when she started her Ziggi and I was so impressed with her version that I wanted to throw away what I was working on and make my own Ziggi right then.  Instead it took me a couple of years to get around to making my own.  Sometimes the right fabric and interpretation just take awhile to find you.

The next thing that I did right was start this jacket with Susan Khalje.  We fiddled with it until I had the perfect fit which meant re-drawing the armscye a bit.  Most patterns don’t accomodate my broad shoulders.  I had done my research on motorcycle jackets and spent time looking at jackets by Belstaff and Matchless and knew that I wanted to incorporate a few details I had come across.  Instead of using the crossed diagonal quilting on the upper arm and shoulder, I made my quilting horizontal lines.  There are two layers of quilt batting crammed in there to give it that puffed up quilting effect.  I also decided to quilt the bottom pattern section of the center back and to leave it as a flap instead of sewing it closed.  I love the triangular effect of the quilted pieces and think it makes for a flattering silhouette.

Laying out the lace was a blast!  This was where it really got fun creatively.  I knew I wanted the largest embroidery motif on the back.  Once I placed that, I had to survey what I had left and come up with a plan.  I decided to go for a heavily embroidered collar and then have the flowers be more randomly and sparsely placed as you move down the jacket.  And as for having enough lace to cover the jacket, I just squeaked by!

The jacket has 5 zippers!  The long zipper to close the jacket, two pocket zippers, and two lower sleeve zippers were all sewn in by hand with pick stitches.  I used grosgrain ribbon to face the pocket which is what you see when the pocket is unzipped.  And of course, it is packed with couture stitches galore.  All the seam allowances are catch-stitched.  The lining was machine sewn then sewn into the jacket by hand.  I used fell stitches along the neckline, facings, and zippers then created jump pleats at the hem and sleeve hem.

I’m over the moon with how it turned out!  So Santiago and I decided maybe we had better go to the “moon” to photograph the jacket.  Arabia Mountain is pretty close.

https://www.featherstitchavenue.comwp-content/uploads/2018/02/FA_Worth_The_Wait_FINAL.mp4

 

Categories // Garments, Jackets Tags // couture sewing, Embroidered Lace, Motorcycle Jacket, Style Arc, Ziggi Jacket

Pretty/Tough

05.08.2017 by Tracey //

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Last summer, I met up in New York with my friend Leisa from A Challenging Sew. We had the most fabulous day shopping in our favorite garment district places and discussing future sewing projects. While we were in B&J Fabrics, we both gravitated to this beautiful cream and black embroidered lace. This is always a dilemma. What do you do when two people like the same thing? Does one defer so that the other can have it exclusively? I was totally ready to say, “No, no, you should have it” when Leisa suggested that we create our own sewing challenge. What if we bought the same amount of the same fabric and then see what we came up with?

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Well, I was thrilled that I dodged the whole “who’s gonna get it?” problem and immediately jumped on her suggestion. Yes! Let’s both work with the lace! We quickly hashed out some parameters—three yards of lace and an agreed upon date to simultaneously post our lace garments unique to our own aesthetic. Done! But then it started to dawn on me that I may have had a major lapse in judgment. Did I really just invite a comparison with someone who has the word “challenging” in the name of her blog? If you read Leisa’s blog, you know that she only shows up with her A-game. I was really going to need to apply all my skills to come up with something that would measure up.

Lace Dress in Skate Park

When I got home, I tried not to sweat it too much. No ideas were coming to mind (I would be a disaster on Project Runway!), but I figured that I would eventually come up with something to make. Damn, it sure did take awhile. The lace is so pretty, but it felt really fancy and high end which is SO not me. Don’t get me wrong. I love working with fine fabrics, but my personal spin is always to figure out how to take something high end and bring it down to my casual lifestyle. Working with contrasts is my favorite way to dress. Pretty with tough or expensive with distressed. It’s got to be high-low. But here’s the problem. This lace does not want to go low. It’s pretty. Period. No “tough” to be seen. Add to that the fact that I felt pressure to make something GOOD, and I was one stuck girl.

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Then, I thought of something my dad used to say. Whenever he would get angry at a driver in front of him, he would yell, “Just do something, even if it’s wrong!” Okay, time to do just that! Something! Anything! So that’s what I did. I had been wanting to try a Marfy slip dress pattern that’s a bit unusual with overlapping bust pieces, an empire waist seam, AND a drop waist. The pattern has kind of a 1920s lingerie look. I didn’t have any real confidence that this would work with the lace, but I decided to jump in anyway.

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Working with the lace was a huge challenge for me. The black embroidery is thick and very stiff and resisted most of my attempts to manipulate it. I just had to get really strategic in how I cut it and pieced it together. The whole time I was working on the dress, there wasn’t a moment when I didn’t think, “yeah, this is gonna suck.” It wasn’t until I was completely finished that I took a step back and realized I LOVE IT! I mean, come on! That semi-handkerchief hem is absolutely to die for! And once I threw on my boots and my belt, there it was, that elusive tough quality I was lamenting it would never have. And while I didn’t necessarily envision my dress as “skate park appropriate”, I actually wasn’t too uncomfortable in that dress in that environment. It kinda worked.

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Lace Dress in Skate Park

But my dress is only half of the story! To see the rest, you have to head over to A Challenging Sew and see what Leisa has been up to. I can guarantee it’s going to be very very good!!  (I post mornings, she posts afternoons.  If it’s not up yet, definitely check back.  It’ll be worth it.)

Pattern, Marfy 3915

Fabric, Cream and Black Embroidered Lace, B&J Fabrics

Lining, Silk Crepe de Chine in Moonstruck, Mood Fabrics

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Okay, for you couture geeks, here’s some dress details.  The cross-over bust definitely makes the construction a little trickier when it comes to lining.  This is the third garment I’ve made with a cross over and it’s always a puzzle to solve when it comes to covering the seams.  With this dress, the lace is underlined and lined.  I had to attach the lining on the bust before it was sewn together.  I covered the seam allowance by hand fell stitching the lower bodice lining piece at the empire waist.  The lace on the skirt was not underlined, but does have a lining which is strategically tacked at the hem point and a few points throughout so that the pointed portion of the hem lining stays underneath the lace.  There is a side zipper put in by hand using a pick stitch.  I deviated from the original pattern and created a double spaghetti strap instead of a wide strap.  And as for the lace hem, I placed the pattern piece so that I could take advantage of the gorgeous decorative edge of the lace.  Once the skirt turns the corner at the squared off hem, obviously you’re in the heart of the lace and there’s no longer the lace selvedge.  So for continuity sake, I carefully cut away a section of the decorative border and hand appliquéd it on the other side of the hem point, placing the lace pattern so that it turned the corner seamlessly.

 

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // couture sewing, Embroidered Lace, Marty, Slip Dress

Hello

I'm on a journey to become a fashion designer but I've got some stuff to learn along the way.

Featherstitch Avenue is my creative journal where any artistic experiment is fair game.

Read More...

Connect

  • Bloglovin
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest

Photography

Images by ©Santiago Vanegas Photography, unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.

Search

Copyright © 2026 · Modern Studio Pro on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in