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The Oscar Dress

04.16.2018 by Tracey //

Wrap Dress in Ireland

When you hear “the Oscar dress”, you think red carpet.  In this case, I’m talking about a different Oscar.  I’ve named my dress for Oscar Wilde and stitched my favorite Wilde quote around the hem of the dress.  To understand why, I’ve got to tell you a story.  I must warn you that some of this post is dark, but if I’ve done my job, hopefully it will make some sense when you get to the end.

Many years ago, I was lucky enough to be able to study at Trinity College in Dublin.  Having already earned my BA in psychology, I was at Trinity to do some graduate work.  I had this incredible tutor who not only taught me, but also allowed me to shadow him at his job at a children’s clinic.  He was working with families who had significant challenges, like a four year old girl who had a metabolic condition that was so severe that if her food intake was not managed to the finest detail, she could die.  She was a really smart girl who had learned how to use this situation to her advantage and had become a tyrant worse than Veruca Salt.  She cursed like a sailor too!

Wrap Dress in Ireland

But by far, my tutor’s favorite client was a nine year old boy named Graeme.  He was a sweetheart who had some developmental delays that his family was trying to come to terms with.  One afternoon, Graeme’s family dropped him off at a video game arcade.  It breaks my heart to tell you that he was taken from the arcade into an alley by a pedophile and molested.  Here’s the part where words fail me.  How can I possibly describe the utter devastation that followed.  After many re-writes, I’ve decided not to even try.  For Graeme and his family, their lives became permanently bisected into “before” and “after”.  My tutor, well, he was so distraught that he couldn’t even teach me anymore and pretty much told me to stop showing up.

Wrap Dress in Ireland

For reasons that are too personal and too complicated to explain here, the whole thing was more than I could handle at the time.  And although I didn’t realize it fully then, that event was the end of my pursuit of a career in psychology.  I looked for an escape and found it in a literature class that focused on Oscar Wilde.  We read everything by Wilde—his novel, his plays, his essays.  It was while reading Lady Windermere’s Fan that I encountered one of Wilde’s more famous lines, “We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars”.  And like all universal truths, when you hear it, it resonates.

Wrap Dress in Ireland

I could write pages and pages on what Lord Darlington was thinking and feeling when he said that line, but the truth is that you don’t need to know the story to understand the sentiment.  We are all in this beautiful mess that we call life.  And it gets really ugly sometimes.  But, we can aspire to be better.  We can look outside of ourselves to find answers or to seek solace.  We can change our perspective.  One of my favorite pieces of advice to give to new parents is this—if your baby keeps crying after you fed them, burped them, and changed their diaper, then change rooms.  Or go outside.  Most of the time, that is all it takes.  

Wrap Dress in Ireland

In a way that’s exactly what I did when I stopped studying psychology and jumped into that literature class.  I was still grappling with life issues, it’s just that I was doing it through a different lens.  Oscar Wilde was certainly no stranger to tragedy and some of the themes we covered were difficult emotional territory.  But for whatever reason, I could process what happened to Graeme and what happened to me through the study of literature.  So, at a time when I was in a foreign country away from the support of family and friends, it was Oscar Wilde who held me and comforted me.  To this day, my favorite photograph of him hangs in my home.  And now my favorite quote is stitched on my dress.  It’s a reminder that even in the darkest times, I can always look up and be guided by the light of the stars.

Wrap Dress in Ireland

Pattern, Alabama Chanin Wrap Dress, Build a Wardrobe 2017

Fabric, Alabama Chanin Medium Weight Organic Cotton Jersey

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

As you can see, we took these photographs in Ireland.  We had an amazing time and it was so great to be back there after all this time.  The dress is a pattern from Alabama Chanin’s Build a Wardrobe 2017 collection.  I had been wanting to stitch the Oscar Wilde quote for quite some time, but needed to find the right garment to do it on.  It took a bit of planning to get the scale of the words right, but I’m happy with how it turned out.  I used embroidery floss to chain-stitch the words and I used bugle beads, chop beads, and sequins to make the stars.  I also stitched smaller stars along the sleeve hem.  And as in all Alabama Chanin garments I’ve made, the entire dress is hand sewn.

Next up will be the first garment that I’m making in a little mini-collection that I’ve envisioned.  Most of the patterns are going to be drafted by me, so it may take me awhile!  Until then, be well everyone!

Wrap Dress in Ireland

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // alabama chanin, Build a Wardrobe 2017, couture sewing, hand sewing, Ireland, Irish Castle, Oscar Wilde, Wrap Dress

Worth The Wait

02.26.2018 by Tracey //

Embroidered Lace Ziggi Jacket

I’m a parent of two kids and like a lot of other parents, I’ve read my fair share of parenting books.  We parents want to raise healthy, confident children. And to do that, many of us have been heaping praise on our developing kids to ensure that they will feel good about themselves. So it’s no surprise that reading the chapter in the book Nurture Shock by Po Bronson and Ashley Merryman called The Inverse Power of Praise hit me like a ton of bricks. Basically it says this: if you are always telling your children how smart they are, it can have a unexpected negative effect on them. Children who internalize that they are smart (or talented or whatever adjective you are using to praise them) find that the next time they are presented with a challenge they are less likely to try.  Why is this? Well, it’s because now the stakes of failure have become too high.  If they don’t succeed, it must mean that they aren’t smart at all.  It might mean that they will lose their parents approval and the stream of steady praise that they have become addicted to will dry up.

Ziggi Jacket, Back

Let that really sink in. These so-called “smart” kids think they have to get it right on their first try! How crazy is that?!  I think it goes without saying that I immediately began to re-think how I was praising my kids. But I also began to wonder how much we adults may have absorbed this kind of thinking.  I wouldn’t say that I was brought up in an era that praise was as prolific as it is now. But I do have to admit that for whatever reason, I have unreasonable expectations of myself.  As a kid, I was naturally good at school and athletics but as I got older and my world expanded, things got much harder. I couldn’t rely on natural abilities. If I couldn’t do something well pretty early in the process, I would actually feel embarrassment and humiliation, and would be reluctant to try it in the future.

Ziggi Jacket, Detail

But here’s the good news for the kids being raised in this praise-heavy world and for grown-ups that are hard on the themselves.  The study goes on to say that kids that are praised for effort, not innate abilities, are much better at taking on new challenges. If you are praising the specific work or focus they are bringing to the task then what is communicated to them is that they have some control over the result. They learn that if they keep trying that they can succeed. They learn that the brain is a muscle and with consistent workouts, it gets better and better. And they learn that failure is not a declaration that they are dumb. Mistakes are simply what happens on the way to mastering something new.

Arabia Mountain and the Ziggi Jacket

Over the years, I have been complimented on my sense of style. So when I took up sewing a few years ago, I figured that I would be making garments that were my style and creating things that I would love to wear right out of the starting gate. I could not have been more wrong! At the end of sewing project after sewing project, I would be left with something that didn’t feel like me at all. The temptation was to think, “I suck at making clothes”, but the thing was (and is) that I LOVE to sew. Because I enjoyed the process so much, I kept going in spite of the fear that I would never make anything that was any good.

Ziggi Jacket

Luckily for me, the passion for sewing was able to override those crazy internalized expectations that I’d be good at it right away.  And with each project, I’ve gotten better. And I’ve gotten better because I’ve put in a lot of time and energy. I’ve set challenges and failed miserably. It’s because of that effort that I feel particularly proud of this jacket. Not because I’m some natural born Alexander McQueen (which, duh, I’m not), but because this jacket represents persistence. According to Bronson and Merryman, “People with this trait, persistence, rebound well and can sustain their motivation through long periods of delayed gratification.” If this jacket doesn’t represent delayed gratification, then I don’t know what does! It took years to get here.

So here’s the takeaway. If you are beating yourself up for being no good at something, try re-parenting your inner child. Give yourself a big pat on the back for showing up and making an effort. Be persistent, and know that gratification is coming, even if it is delayed.

Ziggi Jacket

Pattern, Ziggi Jacket, Style Arc

Top Layer Fabric, Embroidered Lace, Dolce and Gabbana, Mendel Goldberg Fabrics

Bottom Layer Fabric, Reversible Wool Satin Faille, B&J Fabrics

Lining, Silk Crepe de Chine in Blush, Mood Fabrics

Riri Zippers, Pacific Trimming

Photographs and Video by Santiago Vanegas

Arabia Mountain and Ziggi Jacket

Let’s get in to the details of the jacket.  The pattern is the Ziggi Jacket by Style Arc.  I’ve been wanting to try this pattern for a long time and have seen some really amazing makes that others have done.  My favorite is Leisa’s.  I was in Susan Khalje’s workshop with her when she started her Ziggi and I was so impressed with her version that I wanted to throw away what I was working on and make my own Ziggi right then.  Instead it took me a couple of years to get around to making my own.  Sometimes the right fabric and interpretation just take awhile to find you.

The next thing that I did right was start this jacket with Susan Khalje.  We fiddled with it until I had the perfect fit which meant re-drawing the armscye a bit.  Most patterns don’t accomodate my broad shoulders.  I had done my research on motorcycle jackets and spent time looking at jackets by Belstaff and Matchless and knew that I wanted to incorporate a few details I had come across.  Instead of using the crossed diagonal quilting on the upper arm and shoulder, I made my quilting horizontal lines.  There are two layers of quilt batting crammed in there to give it that puffed up quilting effect.  I also decided to quilt the bottom pattern section of the center back and to leave it as a flap instead of sewing it closed.  I love the triangular effect of the quilted pieces and think it makes for a flattering silhouette.

Laying out the lace was a blast!  This was where it really got fun creatively.  I knew I wanted the largest embroidery motif on the back.  Once I placed that, I had to survey what I had left and come up with a plan.  I decided to go for a heavily embroidered collar and then have the flowers be more randomly and sparsely placed as you move down the jacket.  And as for having enough lace to cover the jacket, I just squeaked by!

The jacket has 5 zippers!  The long zipper to close the jacket, two pocket zippers, and two lower sleeve zippers were all sewn in by hand with pick stitches.  I used grosgrain ribbon to face the pocket which is what you see when the pocket is unzipped.  And of course, it is packed with couture stitches galore.  All the seam allowances are catch-stitched.  The lining was machine sewn then sewn into the jacket by hand.  I used fell stitches along the neckline, facings, and zippers then created jump pleats at the hem and sleeve hem.

I’m over the moon with how it turned out!  So Santiago and I decided maybe we had better go to the “moon” to photograph the jacket.  Arabia Mountain is pretty close.

https://www.featherstitchavenue.comwp-content/uploads/2018/02/FA_Worth_The_Wait_FINAL.mp4

 

Categories // Garments, Jackets Tags // couture sewing, Embroidered Lace, Motorcycle Jacket, Style Arc, Ziggi Jacket

Black and White, and Red All Over

10.23.2017 by Tracey //

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Hello Everybody! Long time, no see. When I was trying to figure out what to write, I was thinking about all the reasons that I could list that would explain the big gap since my last post. I started to mentally scroll through my excuses, and almost immediately I thought of a long-time family friend who once commissioned my sister for a painting. When he called to check in about her progress, she proceeded to tell him why the painting wasn’t finished, to which he replied, “I don’t want to hear about your problems. This is business.” What is lost in reading this, is that this man is one of the funniest people I know, and his delivery of this line was made with the most perfect comedic precision. It’s a line that we imitate and repeat frequently in our family, indicating, yeah, we’ve all got problems, now get on with it. And we always laugh when we say it.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Thinking about our family friend calls to mind the many times that we attended New Orleans Saints football games in his Superdome suite. Many of those games were during the “Aints” era when we couldn’t win a game to save our life! In the midst of our collective depression about our repeated failures, our group would be zinging some of the most hilarious lines anyone has ever heard.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Now I know losing a football game is not the end of the world. But humor has helped me to process bigger tragedies as well. A few years ago, my grandfather passed away and it was a particularly difficult loss for me. But I can’t think about his funeral and how hard that day was without also thinking about my brother’s eulogy which was so funny that it actually elicited whoops from the congregation.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Like Truvy says in Steel Magnolias, “Laughter through tears is my favorite emotion”. There’s something about the contrast between those feelings that sharpens them both and somehow makes them even more meaningful. Life is complicated and I know I’m going to feel bad some of the time. The only way to get through it is to go ahead and feel it completely. But when I can also laugh in the middle of it, what a great gift that is.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Pattern, Tessuti Sadie Slip Dress

Fabric, Silk Chiffon, B&J Fabric

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Now let’s talk about this dress. One of my goals of 2017 was to make a garment out of silk chiffon. Nothing like trying chiffon for the first time and cutting on the bias. The good news was that I could use the stripes of the print to stay on grain. The bad news is that I would need to match the side seams and create a perfect chevron shape with the meeting of those stripes. I did a pretty decent job with the matching, but I’ve got one side seam that is ripply (is that a word?) and one side that’s smooth. Learning curve! The dress pattern is the Tessuti Sadie Slip Dress and I am in love with this pattern. I made a size small with no adjustments except for fiddling with the length of the straps. Just to jazz things up, I added the ruffle at the bottom. The ruffle strip has a stay stitch at the bottom, hidden in the print pattern, and left unhemmed so the fabric will unravel a bit the more I wear it. I left the top part of the ruffle with a raw edge as well for a deconstructed look.

Sadie Chiffon Ruffle

In closing, my heart goes out to those who are dealing with the aftermath of hurricanes, earthquakes, or fires. It’s been an intense season of natural disasters and a particularly difficult time for many people. My thoughts and prayers are with you.

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // Chiffon, Sadie Slip Dress, silk, Slip Dress, Tessuti Patterns

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I'm on a journey to become a fashion designer but I've got some stuff to learn along the way.

Featherstitch Avenue is my creative journal where any artistic experiment is fair game.

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Images by ©Santiago Vanegas Photography, unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.

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