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Ikat Skirt

10.03.2015 by Tracey //

Ikat Skirt

Ikat Skirt

Santiago Vanegas Photography

Triple pocket of ikat skirt

Turquoise Lining on Ikat Skirt

Skirt made by Tracey

Pattern, Marfy 3094

Fabric, Ikat Cotton from Mood Fabrics

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Making this skirt kept me up at night!  Those triple pockets gave me such a headache.  As many of you know, Marfy does not include instructions with their patterns.  They assume you know what you are doing.  Ha!  I did not know what the heck I was doing with this one.  I was obsessed with how to construct this skirt and more than any other project I’ve done, the choices I made early on, lead me to only one or sometimes no good choice at the end.  With every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.  To say the least!!  I think I have just about every type of finishing on the inside of this thing.  Slowly but surely, it started to come together, and once I had the triple pockets all functioning as true pockets, I could sleep much better.  I took a lot of care with cutting the fabric.  I knew it would be close to impossible to match the design of the fabric exactly because there are so many asymmetrical pieces coming together and shifting grainlines, but I figured that I could at least preserve the turquoise and coral bands of color in a linear way.  And I’m proud of how it turned out.  Oh, yeah, and I also tweaked the design a bit.  The original design had a sharper angle on one side of the wrap.  I curved it to give it more of a tulip hem.

Enjoy your week, everyone.  See you next time.

Categories // Garments, Skirts Tags // Marfy 3094

Indigo

09.06.2015 by Tracey //

Indigo Skirt on Stone Mountain

Indigo on Stone Mountain

Stone Mountain

Indigo Skirt on Stone Mountain

Indigo Skirt on Stone Mountain

Stone Mountain Skirt

Stone Mountain Skirt

Skirt and Stone Mountain

 

Categories // Garments, Skirts Tags // Indigo, shibori, Skirt, Stone Mountain, Vogue 9090

Julien Dress

08.02.2015 by Tracey //

Striped Dress, Skate Park, Columns

Striped Dress, Columns, Skate Park

Striped Dress, back

Striped Dress, back

Dress Detail at the Skate Park

Dress Detail at the Columns

Dress made by Tracey

Pattern, Draped on a Dress Form during a Workshop with Julien Cristofoli

Fabric, Striped Shirting from Mood Fabrics

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

After about 500 years on my dress form and sewing table, this dress is finally on ME!  What a long time coming!  Let me start at the beginning.  When I began sewing, I knew that the skill that I wanted to learn most of all was draping a garment on a dress form.  In fact, the entire reason that I stumbled on to Susan Khalje’s website was because I was searching for a draping class.  At the time that I first found Susan, her website stated that there were no draping classes scheduled but to check back later.  I went ahead and signed up for one of Susan’s jacket workshops instead which turned out to be WONDERFUL. (You can see the results of two jacket workshops here and here.)  But I was still obsessed with draping, so I went looking for someone local who could come to my house and teach me to drape, and I found Lindsey. But she taught pattern making, so we scheduled those classes instead.  I learned so much from her and you can see the results here and here.  But guess what, I STILL wanted to drape a garment!  So, on to Plan C.  I figured I’d go to the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD).  Well, that was an exercise in patience while dealing with a bureaucracy.  It turns out that since I have a masters degree, I couldn’t enroll as an undergraduate and I wasn’t qualified enough to enroll as a graduate student since I’m relatively new to sewing.  Finally we figured out that I could get around all of that by enrolling as a non-degree student, but I couldn’t just go straight into draping, I had to take Fashion Tech first.  You can see the results of that class here.

Picture this, my second semester at SCAD, and I enroll FINALLY in my first draping class.  Hallelujah!!  First day of class, I’m early, and I’m a complete and total geek with all my school supplies all ready to go.  I’m sitting there.  And I’m sitting there some more.  I check the time.  Someone else should be here by now, right?!  Fifteen minutes in to my class time and I’m still the only one there.  Turns out that I’m not the brown nosing teacher’s pet.  I’m just the dumb ass in my 40s that doesn’t know to check my SCAD email (who even knew I had a SCAD email?!) to find out class was cancelled.

Plan D.  What IS Plan D?  I was out of ideas.  And that’s about the time that I was checking out Susan’s website again (I am probably her most frequent visitor because I just like to look at her workshop schedule and daydream about taking every single one) and what?!……there it is, Draping Workshops with Julien Cristofoli are now scheduled.  He’s coming!  From Paris!  I think that I emailed Susan and called her too.  I probably confirmed my place at least 5,000 times.  I sent in my deposit immediately.  Then I obsessed over what natural disaster would occur to keep me from getting to Baltimore to learn from the master.  And yes, when the time came, my flight was cancelled, but I jumped in the car and drove through torrential rain.  And incidentally, it rained so much in Baltimore that an entire sidewalk slid off into ditch.  It made the national news.

But I made it there.  And Julien made it.  I really don’t have the words to truly describe the joy I felt watching and learning from him.  Julien is a lovely person, and the elegance and grace he has while draping really has to be experienced.  This dress I’m showing you today is something that I started in Julien’s workshop for Tops (not Dresses).  I had been short on fabric for a few of the previous exercises so I overcompensated with a lot of extra fabric, and my top turned into a dress instead.  (I draped the back on my own, once I got home.  It took me forever to work up the courage to try it by myself.)  I can’t take credit for the choice of fabric.  While we were draping, Julien casually mentioned how a stripe might look nice because you could really see how the fabric was shifting, and I seized on that idea and I used that idea.  And it was a really good idea.

As I write this, I now have two workshops with Julien under my belt.  At some point very soon, you will get to see the product from my second workshop with him.  And guess what happened during my second workshop.  The Baltimore Riots.  We haven’t been able to figure out if I am bad luck for Baltimore or if Julien is.  But whenever he comes back, I will definitely be there.  So brace yourself, we don’t know what’s coming!

To see time lapse videos of our photo shoot and to hear about Santiago’s photography process, be sure to check out Facebook page.

Take care, everyone.  See you soon.

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // draping, sewing

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I'm on a journey to become a fashion designer but I've got some stuff to learn along the way.

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Images by ©Santiago Vanegas Photography, unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.

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