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A Thread Through Time

09.12.2016 by Tracey //

Liberty and Lace Top

Liberty and Lace Top

Liberty and Lace Top

Pattern, Alice Top, Tessuti Patterns

Fabric, Liberty Lawn Print, B&J Fabrics

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

When I was 5 years old, my family moved into my great grandparents house. The large old place was pretty much as my great grandfather left it, which meant it was filled up with the most amazing collection of history you can imagine. It was common to unearth antebellum ball gowns, World War I bayonets, and every National Geographic magazine probably since their inception. My sister, my brother and I spent loads of time exploring closets and armoires, searching for treasures, and we found plenty. Looking back on it now I realize it’s the stuff of children’s novels, as good as finding a hidden door to a secret garden.

Those treasure hunts were formative experiences that I’ve carried with me throughout my life. Whether I’ve been working to preserve historic architecture or photographing abandoned buildings, preservation plays a big role in who I am and what I do.

What we leave behind and what we carry forward matters. It’s no different in the world of sewing. Making clothes is rich with history and tradition and as I continue to grow as a designer and sewist, I understand the importance of bringing the older skills to my current era. This top represents my first attempt at heirloom sewing.

A while ago, my friend Anna took me to visit her mom Ashley who is an incredibly talented and accomplished heirloom seamstress. To be able to look at and handle the garments, gowns, and bedcovers she created was such pure joy for me. But the gift didn’t stop there. Ashley no longer sews and she very VERY graciously decided to pass on her beautiful stash of fabric and lace trim to me. I’m still overwhelmed by her generosity.

At first I was intimidated about using anything from her stash because whatever I made could never rise to her level of expertise. But eventually I realized that the best way to honor Ashley and her gift to me was to use what she gave me. So this sweet top was made with a whole bunch of gratitude and a respect for the traditions of sewing. Heirloom sewing can use a variety of techniques but for this project, I tried out pintucks and lace insertion.

In keeping with our historic theme, it seemed only right to apply the same thinking to our photography. Santiago made the images above with a pinhole attachment on his digital camera. An act of bringing together the old with the new. Because there was no lens and merely a tiny pinhole, the exposure was two minutes long. Meaning I sat still, not moving for the entire two minutes that the camera was capturing the image. The “soft focus” comes from the nature of the pinhole and my micro-movements during the exposure. I’ve heard that when people had their portraits taken long ago, they were strapped into a chair to help them to stay still.

(For more detailed and sharper images, scroll down.)

That’s it for this week. Look for another post on October 5. It’s gonna be a good one with the very first Featherstitch Avenue giveaway! See you then.

Liberty Alice Top

Liberty Alice Top

Alice Top, Back

Alice Top, Detail

Categories // Garments, Tops Tags // Alice Top, Heirloom Sewing Techniques, Lace Trim, Liberty Print, Pinhole Photography, Tessuti Patterns

The Acorn Dress

07.25.2016 by Tracey //

French Lace and a Basset Hound

French Lace and a Basset Hound

French Lace and a Basset Hound

French Lace and a Basset

Ringo and the Acorn Dress

Dogs and a Dress

Dogs and a Dress

Pattern, Marfy 3957

Fabric, Lace, Sophie Hallette

Lining, 4-ply silk crepe, Mood Fabrics

Trim, Mokuba Ribbon

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Our family has had a long running joke about our own personal food cycle that plays out daily at our house.  It goes like this–Sookie, our Catahoula Leopard Hound and resident squirrel patrol, chases the squirrels.  The squirrels throw acorns at her.  Ringo, our Basset Hound, rounds up all those acorns in his big mouth and collects them in a pile in our dining room, where he can chew them up whenever he feels like it.  When Ringo’s supply gets low (or non-existent because I’ve cleaned it up), he has a way of encouraging Sookie to get to work pissing off the squirrels so he can replenish his stash.  Ringo must have been thrilled when he hit the motherlode of all acorns.  It truly was huge! I guess he was so excited that he forgot he had to chew and swallowed the darn thing whole.

Why am I telling the story of Ringo and The Acorn (capitalization intentional)?  Because this little drama with The Acorn unfolded when I was at my couture workshop with Susan Khalje.  My week with Susan is always one of the highlights of my year, so it was particularly painful to have to cut it short and rush home.  But Ringo is my baby and there was no question where I should be.  So, how do I know that Ringo swallowed this enormous acorn without so much as a single chomp?  Well, I know because the vet gave us The Acorn after surgically removing it AND 40% of his damaged intestines AND his spleen.  Ringo spent a week in the critical care unit on a feeding tube where things looked very grim.  But as you can see from the photographs, I’m happy to report he’s made a full recovery.  I’ve put a stop to our food cycle and acorns are now enemy #1.

And the dress you see above, yes, you guessed it, is the one I was working on during my sewing workshop.  This dress will be forever linked with the drama of The Acorn.  Nothing to do but go ahead and call this The Acorn Dress.  And our story has the best possible ending.  A healthy dog and a finished dress!  And I am so grateful!!

Okay, let’s talk about the dress…Previously I had used lace trim on a few garments but this was my first attempt to make something out of lace fabric.  Nothing like cutting into some very fine lace from Paris on your first time out!  The lace comes from Sophie Hallette and I owe a debt of gratitude to my friends Nel and Leisa for very graciously making the appointment and guiding me to the very hard to find showroom.  It was so difficult to decide what to buy because I wanted everything!  But finally I opted for something in an unusual pattern and a color that you don’t typically see in lace.

It was a no brainer to tackle the construction of this dress under the guidance of Susan.  No way would I have taken scissors to this lace without her watching over my shoulder.  Everything was planned meticulously–studying the lace, laying out the dress pattern, carefully matching the lace design at all (or most) of the seams.  But my favorite part of making this was far and away working on the lace flounce.  I needed to preserve the beautiful scallops at the edge of the lace, but the flounce pattern piece is not a straight edge but a curve.  Susan showed me how to cut into the lace almost to the bottom, then overlap the cut section giving a gentle curve to the bottom edge.  The overlap is stitched together and the excess is cut away to create an invisible seam.  It’s magical!!

Other details include a narrow machine hem on the silk crepe, a hand picked couture zipper, and Mokuba ribbon stitched around the waist, the armholes, and the neckline.

No doubt about it, I’m now addicted to lace and can’t wait to start another lace project soon.  The last time I was in New York, Leisa and I (and Santiago too, bless him!) went shopping in the garment district and we both bought the same gorgeous lace to interpret in our own way.  Stay tuned to see what we come up with.

See you soon.

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // Basset Hound, couture sewing, French Lace

Mother’s Day

05.08.2016 by Tracey //

Car Wash Skirt

Car Wash Skirt

Car Wash Skirt

Car Wash Skirt

Car Wash Skirt

Car Wash Skirt

Car Wash Skirt by Tracey

Pattern, draped by Tracey

Fabric, Wool Tweed, B&J Fabrics

Lining, Silk Charmeuse, Susan Khalje Couture

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

At least once a day, I feel like Sisyphus.  If you need a refresher on mythology, Sisyphus was the guy who was doomed to push the boulder up the hill, only to see it roll back down again.  I think many moms feel just like that, some of the time.  When asked, “Hey, what did you do today?”.  I say, “Well, let me tell you, I pushed this boulder all the way to the top of the mountain.  And man!  Was it hard work!”.  To that, they reply, “Uh, you sure about that?  Is the boulder you are talking about the one sitting at the bottom of that hill?”.  Yep.  That’s the one.

That’s one of the reasons why I make my creative life a priority.  For the times, I’ve cleaned my butt off, but there are still dirty dishes in the sink, or all of the clean laundry seems to be spilling over the dirty clothes basket, or my son rips the toilet paper holder out of the wall (true), I need to be able to make progress somewhere.  So, I head to my tree house (which is what I call my sewing room), and get to work on a project.

The car wash skirt project threatened to topple my whole system because the progress I was making was about the slowest in my history of sewing.  Don’t get me wrong, I’ve got no problem with slow sewing, but this was like watching the grass grow!  My pace was so frustrating that it took a Herculean (mythology again!!) effort just to finish.  And after about 10 months, give or take, I finally did.  Phew!

This skirt is packed with couture details.  The wool tweed is quilted with the silk charmeuse lining.  The interior pieces were joined using a hand sewn fell stitch.  I put in a petersham ribbon waist band and the zipper was installed using a prick stitch sewn by hand.  Now that it’s completed, I’m thrilled with how it turned out and I’m already starting to forget all the time and force of will it took to get it done.  Just like child birth!  We moms are programmed to forget the pain.  And when I look at my gorgeous angels, I don’t think at all about the effort of bringing them into the world.  Or not much anyway.

Next week, I’m off to Baltimore for another couture sewing workshop with Susan Khalje.  I can’t wait!!  I’m busting out some lace I bought in Paris.  See you soon.

Categories // Garments, Skirts Tags // car wash skirt, couture sewing, hand sewing

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I'm on a journey to become a fashion designer but I've got some stuff to learn along the way.

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