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The Measure of Success

02.27.2017 by Tracey //

Oscar Gold Dress

And the Oscar goes to……..well, definitely not me! (Or LaLa Land either apparently. Oops!!) This dress would decidedly not win any awards. It’s a garment I made a few years ago. Have I worn it? Not once. Do I like it? Not really. Do I consider it a success? YES, without a doubt.

Oscar Gold Dress

I’m starting to realize that all of us are a little screwed up when it comes to measuring our success. Too many times, we are looking for external approval. And the world definitely supports this approach to evaluating our accomplishments. There are awards, promotions at work, likes, followers, on and on. I think it’s gotten out of hand. The other day I was reading a really touching, almost heartbreaking post written by a woman lamenting that Instagram must not be her community. She just wasn’t feeling the love. I happen to really enjoy her posts so I wondered if it was just me. I checked her followers and found that she has almost 40,000!! And she’s not feeling the love?! What?! That’s not enough?!

Oscar Gold Dress

What are we Creatives to do if the measure of our success is all about the numbers? Frankly, I wouldn’t be able to make anything if the standard that I’m going to judge the work by is how many people like it. I also would have a lot of trouble creating anything if it had to be considered a work of genius setting the fashion world on fire. Last time I checked, I’m not Iris Van Herpen. And what a freeing idea that is! I can remove that burden from my shoulders and focus more on the happiness that comes from an artistic endeavor.

Oscar Gold Dress

It helps me to move past my mental blocks if I define what it is that I’m trying to do. For this dress, I wanted to get out of my comfort zone. I wanted to make my first garment made out of silk charmeuse. Did I experience a lot of frustration? Yes. Did I want to toss it in the trash frequently? Oh, yeah, did I ever! Did I have a sense of undeniable joy that I persisted? Absolutely. And did I learn some new skills, but even more importantly learn something about myself? I sure did.  Did I want to show everyone what I made?  No!  Honestly, I’m so hard on myself that it’s just plain ridiculous.  But I meet a lot of people just like me in this regard and I think it’s time we let ourselves off the hook and learn how to appreciate our accomplishments and enjoy ourselves and our talents much more.

Sometimes, it’s what’s on the inside, not the outside, that really counts.

Pattern, Marfy 2168

Fabric, Silk Charmeuse in Toasted, Mood Fabrics

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // Marfy 2168

Rosebud

02.06.2017 by Tracey //

Rosebud Dress

I swear I’m going to talk about my dress, but first I have to tell you a story. I lived in San Francisco for about 10 years. After I moved from New Orleans to San Francisco, I got swept up in the outdoor adventure culture. Living in New Orleans, when I would tell my friends that I was going to workout, they would say, “Uh, wait, what are you going to do?!” Not that I’m knocking New Orleans. It remains my favorite city and I miss it everyday, but it’s not necessarily known for fitness. So, when I got to San Francisco and everyone was so active, it definitely marked a change in my environment. I would casually ask a friend what they were doing over the weekend and they would say, “I’m going to climb Mt Hood”. Then it was my turn to say, “Uh, wait, what are you going to do?!” With all this going on around me, I decided to get on board. What I settled on was swimming.

I heard from a friend’s husband that he was planning to swim a race across San Francisco Bay. I know, I know. I’m like you. I didn’t think people did THAT. I mean, haven’t we all heard the stories about how you couldn’t escape from Alcatraz because no one could swim the bay? Apparently, you CAN swim the bay and people do it all the time. The trick is swimming at high tide when the waters are at their calmest.

Rosebud Dress

Yep. This is what I decided I would try. I registered for the race that began on the beach of Angel Island and finished on the docks of Tiburon. I bought a wet suit and trained for months at the relatively quiet, but frigid waters of Aquatic Park. On the day of the race when I would finally be hitting open water, my friend Kenneth gave me some very important advice. He told me to count my strokes and go to a high number like 50 before I looked up to see where I was. He explained that when you get in the bay, everything seems very far away and it’s hard to judge distances. Count your strokes, check to make sure you are headed in the right direction, then put your head down and do it again.

Of all the training I did, this was the most important lesson of all. You can’t imagine the overwhelming feelings that come when you find yourself in the middle of San Francisco Bay with the waves pounding you and the tide pulling you and you can barely see the shore. It would be so easy to panic. But Kenneth taught me the right mindset. Head down, stroke hard, stay measured, check your bearings, then do it again.

Rosebud Dress

Lately, I am having days that feel like I’m in the bay. With the ground shifting beneath my feet, it’s no accident that the creative project I turned to involved slow, measured hand sewing. This is the Factory Dress from Alabama Chanin’s Build a Wardrobe subscription. A completely hand sewn garment. Obviously this approach to sewing is very different from sewing on a machine in a whole slew of ways, but to me the most important aspect is that you cannot be focused on finishing. If you are sitting there trying to figure out how much more you have to do before you are done, you will be miserable. The point is to sit down, breathe, and stitch. I’m actually always a little surprised when I reach the end. I wouldn’t say that it takes patience so much as determination. I’ll be forever grateful for that lesson I learned swimming. Put your head down, do the work, but also enjoy the journey. Feel good about your focus and your strength, whether physical or mental. And know that you may not see the finish line, but each action gets you closer.

Rosebud Dress

Okay, more about the dress. First of all, I encourage you to check out this year’s Build a Wardrobe subscription. I think the patterns are amazing, each one lending itself to so much customization. You can really get creative! I love the basic silhouette of the Factory Dress but there are a couple of changes I made to the pattern. I enlarged the neck opening one inch equally around the neckline. And I added sleeves! I drafted a puff sleeve, with a puff to the cap but not the hem. And of course, I had to embellish it with a triple stripe stitched down the front with the rosebud stitch (my favorite!). I made the stripes using strips of matching jersey cut about 3/4” wide and stitched over. Let’s talk about the rosebud stitch a bit. I think it’s so lacy and beautiful, but if you try it, be prepared to use up a lot of thread. I think that I went through 3 spools on this dress. Each thread length (I use a length that reaches to my elbow) stitched a little less than 2 inches. Yes, the going is slow! Now you can see why I told my swimming story. I have about 200 inches of the rosebud stitch on this dress with the stripes, the neckline, and the sleeve hem. That’s a lot of rosebudding! (Instructions for the rosebud stitch are found in all of Natalie’s books.)

Rosebud Dress

If you haven’t tried an Alabama Chanin project, I highly recommend it. And when you complete your garment, you can give yourself a big pat on the back and all your friends will be so impressed when you tell them that the garment is 100% hand sewn! Bragging rights for life! Because let me tell you, I’m still bragging about the fact that I swam the bay. Whenever I took my kids on the ferry, I would make sure that I was surrounded by tourists, and say VERY LOUDLY, “Hey kids, your mommy swam from there to there”, dramatically waving my arms and pointing from Angel Island then way, way over to Tiburon. I was sure to get at least a few oohs and aahs from someone. My children, not so impressed.  They just roll their eyes, “yeah, yeah, whatever”.

Lessons learned from swimming.  Lessons learned from sewing.  Lessons that come in handy when I’m trying to maintain balance in this ever changing landscape we live in.  You may laugh but I keep thinking about what Dory sang in Finding Nemo, “Just keep swimming, just keep swimming”. Or if it applies, “Just keep stitching, just keep stitching”.

Rosebud Dress

Pattern, Factory Dress, Mid Length Option, Build a Wardrobe 2017

Pattern Adjustments, Enlarged Neckline and Puffed Sleeves

Fabric, Alabama Chanin Organic Cotton Jersey in Plum

Thread, Coats and Clark Button-Craft in Black

Stitching, Fell Stitch and Rosebud Stitch

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // alabama chanin, Build a Wardrobe, Factory Dress, Rosebud Stitch, The School of Making

The Journey

01.16.2017 by Tracey //

Slouchy Skirt

So, let’s start at the beginning. No, not my beginning. And not THE Beginning. I’m talking about the origins of the fabric that I used to make this skirt. I stumbled on to something really special and the story is worth telling.

Slouchy Skirt

This skirt fabric is made by an Italian company called Gandini Tessuti Alta Moda. With a name like that, you know we’re talking luxury. You don’t even have to see the fabric to know it’s high end. Gandini has been around since 1925, but it was Susy Gandini who took over in 1961 who really brought the company to where it is now. When she began running the company, Gandini Fabrics became a “converter”, meaning they took raw fabric from mills around Lake Como and customized it. Using various finishing techniques, they changed color and texture which obviously alters how it looks but it also changes how it feels and how the fabric behaves.

Susy Gandini then sells the converted fabric to the best design houses in the world. Chanel, Valentino, and Dior are all clients. What’s left over can sometimes make its way to places like Mood or Mendel Goldberg.

Slouchy Skirt

When I was in Paris with Susan Khalje, we went fabric shopping at Janssens & Janssens (FYI, AMAZlNG!!).  While there, I’m having a grand time picking out my choices. I’m working with a lovely sales woman and she’s giving me the requisite “ooohs and aaahs” at the things that I’m bringing to the cutting table. Just as I’m starting to think that I’m finished shopping I spot a fabric that was almost too high for me to reach. I have to stretch for it and pull it out from under a stack of other bolts. When I take it to be cut, my charming sales woman, who has been all light and smiles, looks at me with an evaluating eye and says with dead seriousness, “You have good taste”. Up until that point, I think she was humoring the American. But something shifted when I presented her with the Gandini fabric, and without knowing it, I passed some sort of test. Can I tell you, I felt like I won something big! I came outta there, beaming with pride.

Slouchy Skirt

Now I wonder, if a fabric could have feelings, how it must have felt being put in my suitcase and brought to the southern United States. Not necessarily the most glamorous destination. Could it be that it had high hopes of being turned into something fabulous by Karl Lagerfeld? Or is it more that it had sat so long in the fabric store that it was just grateful to be bought like the damaged teddy bear, Corduroy? Whatever it’s feelings, it was mine now to hopefully not screw up.

Slouchy Skirt

Slouchy Skirt

Let me just say that to really appreciate this fabric, it has to be handled. The feel and the drape is not like anything I’ve ever (ever!) worked with. It’s simply extraordinary. I looked around for a pattern that matched what I had in my head but didn’t find anything, so I decided to drape it myself. My favorite way to dress is to play with contrasting elements and it seemed appropriate to me that with such a luxury fabric, it would be fun to make a casual and slouchy skirt.

It may have been adding insult to injury that I took the skirt to a mountain top farm in Colombia. Or maybe it’s just happy to be seeing the world. Who knows?! I tried getting the dogs, the cow, and the chickens to join me in one of the photographs but they wouldn’t come close. You can draw your own conclusions.

Pattern, Self-Draped Skirt with Pockets

Fabric, Gandini Silk Blend, Janssens and Janssens, Paris

Couture Details, Handsewn Pick-Stitch Zipper and Narrow Machine Hem

Photographs by Santiago Vanegas

Location, Colombia

(The information about Gandini came from The Mood Guide to Fabric and Fashion.  Also, I didn’t make the shirt I’m wearing. It’s a vintage linen top from my closet.)

Categories // Garments, Skirts Tags // Colombia, France, Gandini Fabric, Italy, Pleated Skirt

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I'm on a journey to become a fashion designer but I've got some stuff to learn along the way.

Featherstitch Avenue is my creative journal where any artistic experiment is fair game.

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