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Worth The Wait

02.26.2018 by Tracey //

Embroidered Lace Ziggi Jacket

I’m a parent of two kids and like a lot of other parents, I’ve read my fair share of parenting books.  We parents want to raise healthy, confident children. And to do that, many of us have been heaping praise on our developing kids to ensure that they will feel good about themselves. So it’s no surprise that reading the chapter in the book Nurture Shock by Po Bronson and Ashley Merryman called The Inverse Power of Praise hit me like a ton of bricks. Basically it says this: if you are always telling your children how smart they are, it can have a unexpected negative effect on them. Children who internalize that they are smart (or talented or whatever adjective you are using to praise them) find that the next time they are presented with a challenge they are less likely to try.  Why is this? Well, it’s because now the stakes of failure have become too high.  If they don’t succeed, it must mean that they aren’t smart at all.  It might mean that they will lose their parents approval and the stream of steady praise that they have become addicted to will dry up.

Ziggi Jacket, Back

Let that really sink in. These so-called “smart” kids think they have to get it right on their first try! How crazy is that?!  I think it goes without saying that I immediately began to re-think how I was praising my kids. But I also began to wonder how much we adults may have absorbed this kind of thinking.  I wouldn’t say that I was brought up in an era that praise was as prolific as it is now. But I do have to admit that for whatever reason, I have unreasonable expectations of myself.  As a kid, I was naturally good at school and athletics but as I got older and my world expanded, things got much harder. I couldn’t rely on natural abilities. If I couldn’t do something well pretty early in the process, I would actually feel embarrassment and humiliation, and would be reluctant to try it in the future.

Ziggi Jacket, Detail

But here’s the good news for the kids being raised in this praise-heavy world and for grown-ups that are hard on the themselves.  The study goes on to say that kids that are praised for effort, not innate abilities, are much better at taking on new challenges. If you are praising the specific work or focus they are bringing to the task then what is communicated to them is that they have some control over the result. They learn that if they keep trying that they can succeed. They learn that the brain is a muscle and with consistent workouts, it gets better and better. And they learn that failure is not a declaration that they are dumb. Mistakes are simply what happens on the way to mastering something new.

Arabia Mountain and the Ziggi Jacket

Over the years, I have been complimented on my sense of style. So when I took up sewing a few years ago, I figured that I would be making garments that were my style and creating things that I would love to wear right out of the starting gate. I could not have been more wrong! At the end of sewing project after sewing project, I would be left with something that didn’t feel like me at all. The temptation was to think, “I suck at making clothes”, but the thing was (and is) that I LOVE to sew. Because I enjoyed the process so much, I kept going in spite of the fear that I would never make anything that was any good.

Ziggi Jacket

Luckily for me, the passion for sewing was able to override those crazy internalized expectations that I’d be good at it right away.  And with each project, I’ve gotten better. And I’ve gotten better because I’ve put in a lot of time and energy. I’ve set challenges and failed miserably. It’s because of that effort that I feel particularly proud of this jacket. Not because I’m some natural born Alexander McQueen (which, duh, I’m not), but because this jacket represents persistence. According to Bronson and Merryman, “People with this trait, persistence, rebound well and can sustain their motivation through long periods of delayed gratification.” If this jacket doesn’t represent delayed gratification, then I don’t know what does! It took years to get here.

So here’s the takeaway. If you are beating yourself up for being no good at something, try re-parenting your inner child. Give yourself a big pat on the back for showing up and making an effort. Be persistent, and know that gratification is coming, even if it is delayed.

Ziggi Jacket

Pattern, Ziggi Jacket, Style Arc

Top Layer Fabric, Embroidered Lace, Dolce and Gabbana, Mendel Goldberg Fabrics

Bottom Layer Fabric, Reversible Wool Satin Faille, B&J Fabrics

Lining, Silk Crepe de Chine in Blush, Mood Fabrics

Riri Zippers, Pacific Trimming

Photographs and Video by Santiago Vanegas

Arabia Mountain and Ziggi Jacket

Let’s get in to the details of the jacket.  The pattern is the Ziggi Jacket by Style Arc.  I’ve been wanting to try this pattern for a long time and have seen some really amazing makes that others have done.  My favorite is Leisa’s.  I was in Susan Khalje’s workshop with her when she started her Ziggi and I was so impressed with her version that I wanted to throw away what I was working on and make my own Ziggi right then.  Instead it took me a couple of years to get around to making my own.  Sometimes the right fabric and interpretation just take awhile to find you.

The next thing that I did right was start this jacket with Susan Khalje.  We fiddled with it until I had the perfect fit which meant re-drawing the armscye a bit.  Most patterns don’t accomodate my broad shoulders.  I had done my research on motorcycle jackets and spent time looking at jackets by Belstaff and Matchless and knew that I wanted to incorporate a few details I had come across.  Instead of using the crossed diagonal quilting on the upper arm and shoulder, I made my quilting horizontal lines.  There are two layers of quilt batting crammed in there to give it that puffed up quilting effect.  I also decided to quilt the bottom pattern section of the center back and to leave it as a flap instead of sewing it closed.  I love the triangular effect of the quilted pieces and think it makes for a flattering silhouette.

Laying out the lace was a blast!  This was where it really got fun creatively.  I knew I wanted the largest embroidery motif on the back.  Once I placed that, I had to survey what I had left and come up with a plan.  I decided to go for a heavily embroidered collar and then have the flowers be more randomly and sparsely placed as you move down the jacket.  And as for having enough lace to cover the jacket, I just squeaked by!

The jacket has 5 zippers!  The long zipper to close the jacket, two pocket zippers, and two lower sleeve zippers were all sewn in by hand with pick stitches.  I used grosgrain ribbon to face the pocket which is what you see when the pocket is unzipped.  And of course, it is packed with couture stitches galore.  All the seam allowances are catch-stitched.  The lining was machine sewn then sewn into the jacket by hand.  I used fell stitches along the neckline, facings, and zippers then created jump pleats at the hem and sleeve hem.

I’m over the moon with how it turned out!  So Santiago and I decided maybe we had better go to the “moon” to photograph the jacket.  Arabia Mountain is pretty close.

https://www.featherstitchavenue.comwp-content/uploads/2018/02/FA_Worth_The_Wait_FINAL.mp4

 

Categories // Garments, Jackets Tags // couture sewing, Embroidered Lace, Motorcycle Jacket, Style Arc, Ziggi Jacket

French Vest

03.29.2015 by Tracey //

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French Vest by Tracey

Pattern, Vogue 7975 (modified)

Cotton Canvas, B&J Fabrics

Metal Studs, M&J Trimming

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

This vest is one of my go-to items for spring.  Since I made it out of canvas, it’s got some weight to it, so it works really well on those “sort of”‘ warm days.  (Anything below 85 is not warm in my book.  Yes, I’m a lightweight.)  I was obsessed with an Isabel Marant vest from a few seasons ago, and decided to make my own version.  I rounded up all my supplies on a trip to New York which involved buying lots of bags of pyramid studs from M&J Trimming.  Opening my suitcase at home, it was no surprise to me at all that I had a note inside announcing that my bag had been checked.  All those studs probably landed me on a watchlist somewhere.  And those studs did end up causing pain, but only to me and my pattern-making instructor Lindsey as we sat there puncturing our fingertips trying to push the little buggers through the fabric.  But when all was said and done, I was pretty happy with the result.  And our babysitter said, “I would actually buy that!”.  High praise indeed.

We’ll see you in two weeks.  Happy Easter!!

Categories // Garments, Jackets, Tops Tags // french vest, metal studs, vogue 7975

Shopping for Records in my Black Jacket

03.22.2015 by Tracey //

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Black Jacket by Tracey

Pattern, Vogue 7975 (modified sleeves)

Wool tweed and silk charmeuse, Mendel Goldberg

Buttons, M&J Trimming

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Location, Sunbrimmer Records

I don’t know about you, but I am so glad that vinyl is back!!  You can make an argument that the sound of vinyl is so much better than CDs and certainly better than downloaded music, and believe me, my husband makes that argument all the time.  But you know what I really love about albums?  I love the art work.  I love that with each record there had to be a fully fleshed out concept–music and art.  The best records not only had unforgettable music but they also grabbed your attention with an interesting album cover.  And you had so many opportunities to be creative.  Front cover, back cover, insert.  I used to love the feeling of tearing the cellophane off the record and reading all the liner notes and lyrics.

And you know what else I miss?  How record stores used to be social gathering places.  I used to spend hours and hours there.  Those lazy afternoons, flipping through the bins, talking to whoever came in.  That’s what we love about Sunbrimmer Records.  It’s the kind of place that attracts people who really love music and get excited when they find that elusive album they’ve been hoping to score.  So, we were really multi-tasking when we photographed this spread.  It was as much about shopping as it was about photographing.  And thank you so much, Mike for allowing us to use your fantastic store as our backdrop.

My jacket is an older make.  I finished it in 2013 and let me tell you, I’ve worn the heck out of it.  I think it’s still my favorite item that I’ve ever created.  It was a product of my very first workshop with Susan Khalje and it’s my sentimental favorite because everything I made before this jacket had been more of a learning experience and less about a wearable garment.  When I completed this jacket, it was the very first time I experienced a feeling of my vision meeting my skill level and producing something I would actually wear.  It represents a major turning point in my sewing adventure.  I feel so strongly about it that I treat it like a friend.  It’s not unusual for me to talk to it and say things like, “I’m going to take you shopping today!”  It’s nutty, I know, but it’s more than just a jacket and should be afforded the proper respect.

Next week, I’m going to show you the garment I made after this jacket.  I used the same pattern and modified it to make a vest.  So come back on Sunday, March 29.

And one more thing….I have to tell you about one of my favorite blogs.  It’s called My Husband’s Stupid Record Collection.  If you love albums, this is a blog that you have to check out.  Her record reviews are so entertaining!  And while I’m on the subject, Santiago and I recently watched the movie, Last Shop Standing, The Rise, Fall and Rebirth of the Independent Record Shop.  It has a really great interview with Johnny Marr.  Love him!!!

And here’s what we bought….

Featherstitch Avenue albums

Categories // Garments, Jackets Tags // couture sewing, record stores, sunbrimmer records, vogue 7975

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I'm on a journey to become a fashion designer but I've got some stuff to learn along the way.

Featherstitch Avenue is my creative journal where any artistic experiment is fair game.

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