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Pretty/Tough

05.08.2017 by Tracey //

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Last summer, I met up in New York with my friend Leisa from A Challenging Sew. We had the most fabulous day shopping in our favorite garment district places and discussing future sewing projects. While we were in B&J Fabrics, we both gravitated to this beautiful cream and black embroidered lace. This is always a dilemma. What do you do when two people like the same thing? Does one defer so that the other can have it exclusively? I was totally ready to say, “No, no, you should have it” when Leisa suggested that we create our own sewing challenge. What if we bought the same amount of the same fabric and then see what we came up with?

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Well, I was thrilled that I dodged the whole “who’s gonna get it?” problem and immediately jumped on her suggestion. Yes! Let’s both work with the lace! We quickly hashed out some parameters—three yards of lace and an agreed upon date to simultaneously post our lace garments unique to our own aesthetic. Done! But then it started to dawn on me that I may have had a major lapse in judgment. Did I really just invite a comparison with someone who has the word “challenging” in the name of her blog? If you read Leisa’s blog, you know that she only shows up with her A-game. I was really going to need to apply all my skills to come up with something that would measure up.

Lace Dress in Skate Park

When I got home, I tried not to sweat it too much. No ideas were coming to mind (I would be a disaster on Project Runway!), but I figured that I would eventually come up with something to make. Damn, it sure did take awhile. The lace is so pretty, but it felt really fancy and high end which is SO not me. Don’t get me wrong. I love working with fine fabrics, but my personal spin is always to figure out how to take something high end and bring it down to my casual lifestyle. Working with contrasts is my favorite way to dress. Pretty with tough or expensive with distressed. It’s got to be high-low. But here’s the problem. This lace does not want to go low. It’s pretty. Period. No “tough” to be seen. Add to that the fact that I felt pressure to make something GOOD, and I was one stuck girl.

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Then, I thought of something my dad used to say. Whenever he would get angry at a driver in front of him, he would yell, “Just do something, even if it’s wrong!” Okay, time to do just that! Something! Anything! So that’s what I did. I had been wanting to try a Marfy slip dress pattern that’s a bit unusual with overlapping bust pieces, an empire waist seam, AND a drop waist. The pattern has kind of a 1920s lingerie look. I didn’t have any real confidence that this would work with the lace, but I decided to jump in anyway.

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Working with the lace was a huge challenge for me. The black embroidery is thick and very stiff and resisted most of my attempts to manipulate it. I just had to get really strategic in how I cut it and pieced it together. The whole time I was working on the dress, there wasn’t a moment when I didn’t think, “yeah, this is gonna suck.” It wasn’t until I was completely finished that I took a step back and realized I LOVE IT! I mean, come on! That semi-handkerchief hem is absolutely to die for! And once I threw on my boots and my belt, there it was, that elusive tough quality I was lamenting it would never have. And while I didn’t necessarily envision my dress as “skate park appropriate”, I actually wasn’t too uncomfortable in that dress in that environment. It kinda worked.

Lace Dress in Skate Park

Lace Dress in Skate Park

But my dress is only half of the story! To see the rest, you have to head over to A Challenging Sew and see what Leisa has been up to. I can guarantee it’s going to be very very good!!  (I post mornings, she posts afternoons.  If it’s not up yet, definitely check back.  It’ll be worth it.)

Pattern, Marfy 3915

Fabric, Cream and Black Embroidered Lace, B&J Fabrics

Lining, Silk Crepe de Chine in Moonstruck, Mood Fabrics

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Okay, for you couture geeks, here’s some dress details.  The cross-over bust definitely makes the construction a little trickier when it comes to lining.  This is the third garment I’ve made with a cross over and it’s always a puzzle to solve when it comes to covering the seams.  With this dress, the lace is underlined and lined.  I had to attach the lining on the bust before it was sewn together.  I covered the seam allowance by hand fell stitching the lower bodice lining piece at the empire waist.  The lace on the skirt was not underlined, but does have a lining which is strategically tacked at the hem point and a few points throughout so that the pointed portion of the hem lining stays underneath the lace.  There is a side zipper put in by hand using a pick stitch.  I deviated from the original pattern and created a double spaghetti strap instead of a wide strap.  And as for the lace hem, I placed the pattern piece so that I could take advantage of the gorgeous decorative edge of the lace.  Once the skirt turns the corner at the squared off hem, obviously you’re in the heart of the lace and there’s no longer the lace selvedge.  So for continuity sake, I carefully cut away a section of the decorative border and hand appliquéd it on the other side of the hem point, placing the lace pattern so that it turned the corner seamlessly.

 

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // couture sewing, Embroidered Lace, Marty, Slip Dress

The Measure of Success

02.27.2017 by Tracey //

Oscar Gold Dress

And the Oscar goes to……..well, definitely not me! (Or LaLa Land either apparently. Oops!!) This dress would decidedly not win any awards. It’s a garment I made a few years ago. Have I worn it? Not once. Do I like it? Not really. Do I consider it a success? YES, without a doubt.

Oscar Gold Dress

I’m starting to realize that all of us are a little screwed up when it comes to measuring our success. Too many times, we are looking for external approval. And the world definitely supports this approach to evaluating our accomplishments. There are awards, promotions at work, likes, followers, on and on. I think it’s gotten out of hand. The other day I was reading a really touching, almost heartbreaking post written by a woman lamenting that Instagram must not be her community. She just wasn’t feeling the love. I happen to really enjoy her posts so I wondered if it was just me. I checked her followers and found that she has almost 40,000!! And she’s not feeling the love?! What?! That’s not enough?!

Oscar Gold Dress

What are we Creatives to do if the measure of our success is all about the numbers? Frankly, I wouldn’t be able to make anything if the standard that I’m going to judge the work by is how many people like it. I also would have a lot of trouble creating anything if it had to be considered a work of genius setting the fashion world on fire. Last time I checked, I’m not Iris Van Herpen. And what a freeing idea that is! I can remove that burden from my shoulders and focus more on the happiness that comes from an artistic endeavor.

Oscar Gold Dress

It helps me to move past my mental blocks if I define what it is that I’m trying to do. For this dress, I wanted to get out of my comfort zone. I wanted to make my first garment made out of silk charmeuse. Did I experience a lot of frustration? Yes. Did I want to toss it in the trash frequently? Oh, yeah, did I ever! Did I have a sense of undeniable joy that I persisted? Absolutely. And did I learn some new skills, but even more importantly learn something about myself? I sure did.  Did I want to show everyone what I made?  No!  Honestly, I’m so hard on myself that it’s just plain ridiculous.  But I meet a lot of people just like me in this regard and I think it’s time we let ourselves off the hook and learn how to appreciate our accomplishments and enjoy ourselves and our talents much more.

Sometimes, it’s what’s on the inside, not the outside, that really counts.

Pattern, Marfy 2168

Fabric, Silk Charmeuse in Toasted, Mood Fabrics

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // Marfy 2168

Rosebud

02.06.2017 by Tracey //

Rosebud Dress

I swear I’m going to talk about my dress, but first I have to tell you a story. I lived in San Francisco for about 10 years. After I moved from New Orleans to San Francisco, I got swept up in the outdoor adventure culture. Living in New Orleans, when I would tell my friends that I was going to workout, they would say, “Uh, wait, what are you going to do?!” Not that I’m knocking New Orleans. It remains my favorite city and I miss it everyday, but it’s not necessarily known for fitness. So, when I got to San Francisco and everyone was so active, it definitely marked a change in my environment. I would casually ask a friend what they were doing over the weekend and they would say, “I’m going to climb Mt Hood”. Then it was my turn to say, “Uh, wait, what are you going to do?!” With all this going on around me, I decided to get on board. What I settled on was swimming.

I heard from a friend’s husband that he was planning to swim a race across San Francisco Bay. I know, I know. I’m like you. I didn’t think people did THAT. I mean, haven’t we all heard the stories about how you couldn’t escape from Alcatraz because no one could swim the bay? Apparently, you CAN swim the bay and people do it all the time. The trick is swimming at high tide when the waters are at their calmest.

Rosebud Dress

Yep. This is what I decided I would try. I registered for the race that began on the beach of Angel Island and finished on the docks of Tiburon. I bought a wet suit and trained for months at the relatively quiet, but frigid waters of Aquatic Park. On the day of the race when I would finally be hitting open water, my friend Kenneth gave me some very important advice. He told me to count my strokes and go to a high number like 50 before I looked up to see where I was. He explained that when you get in the bay, everything seems very far away and it’s hard to judge distances. Count your strokes, check to make sure you are headed in the right direction, then put your head down and do it again.

Of all the training I did, this was the most important lesson of all. You can’t imagine the overwhelming feelings that come when you find yourself in the middle of San Francisco Bay with the waves pounding you and the tide pulling you and you can barely see the shore. It would be so easy to panic. But Kenneth taught me the right mindset. Head down, stroke hard, stay measured, check your bearings, then do it again.

Rosebud Dress

Lately, I am having days that feel like I’m in the bay. With the ground shifting beneath my feet, it’s no accident that the creative project I turned to involved slow, measured hand sewing. This is the Factory Dress from Alabama Chanin’s Build a Wardrobe subscription. A completely hand sewn garment. Obviously this approach to sewing is very different from sewing on a machine in a whole slew of ways, but to me the most important aspect is that you cannot be focused on finishing. If you are sitting there trying to figure out how much more you have to do before you are done, you will be miserable. The point is to sit down, breathe, and stitch. I’m actually always a little surprised when I reach the end. I wouldn’t say that it takes patience so much as determination. I’ll be forever grateful for that lesson I learned swimming. Put your head down, do the work, but also enjoy the journey. Feel good about your focus and your strength, whether physical or mental. And know that you may not see the finish line, but each action gets you closer.

Rosebud Dress

Okay, more about the dress. First of all, I encourage you to check out this year’s Build a Wardrobe subscription. I think the patterns are amazing, each one lending itself to so much customization. You can really get creative! I love the basic silhouette of the Factory Dress but there are a couple of changes I made to the pattern. I enlarged the neck opening one inch equally around the neckline. And I added sleeves! I drafted a puff sleeve, with a puff to the cap but not the hem. And of course, I had to embellish it with a triple stripe stitched down the front with the rosebud stitch (my favorite!). I made the stripes using strips of matching jersey cut about 3/4” wide and stitched over. Let’s talk about the rosebud stitch a bit. I think it’s so lacy and beautiful, but if you try it, be prepared to use up a lot of thread. I think that I went through 3 spools on this dress. Each thread length (I use a length that reaches to my elbow) stitched a little less than 2 inches. Yes, the going is slow! Now you can see why I told my swimming story. I have about 200 inches of the rosebud stitch on this dress with the stripes, the neckline, and the sleeve hem. That’s a lot of rosebudding! (Instructions for the rosebud stitch are found in all of Natalie’s books.)

Rosebud Dress

If you haven’t tried an Alabama Chanin project, I highly recommend it. And when you complete your garment, you can give yourself a big pat on the back and all your friends will be so impressed when you tell them that the garment is 100% hand sewn! Bragging rights for life! Because let me tell you, I’m still bragging about the fact that I swam the bay. Whenever I took my kids on the ferry, I would make sure that I was surrounded by tourists, and say VERY LOUDLY, “Hey kids, your mommy swam from there to there”, dramatically waving my arms and pointing from Angel Island then way, way over to Tiburon. I was sure to get at least a few oohs and aahs from someone. My children, not so impressed.  They just roll their eyes, “yeah, yeah, whatever”.

Lessons learned from swimming.  Lessons learned from sewing.  Lessons that come in handy when I’m trying to maintain balance in this ever changing landscape we live in.  You may laugh but I keep thinking about what Dory sang in Finding Nemo, “Just keep swimming, just keep swimming”. Or if it applies, “Just keep stitching, just keep stitching”.

Rosebud Dress

Pattern, Factory Dress, Mid Length Option, Build a Wardrobe 2017

Pattern Adjustments, Enlarged Neckline and Puffed Sleeves

Fabric, Alabama Chanin Organic Cotton Jersey in Plum

Thread, Coats and Clark Button-Craft in Black

Stitching, Fell Stitch and Rosebud Stitch

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // alabama chanin, Build a Wardrobe, Factory Dress, Rosebud Stitch, The School of Making

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I'm on a journey to become a fashion designer but I've got some stuff to learn along the way.

Featherstitch Avenue is my creative journal where any artistic experiment is fair game.

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