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The Oscar Dress

04.16.2018 by Tracey //

Wrap Dress in Ireland

When you hear “the Oscar dress”, you think red carpet.  In this case, I’m talking about a different Oscar.  I’ve named my dress for Oscar Wilde and stitched my favorite Wilde quote around the hem of the dress.  To understand why, I’ve got to tell you a story.  I must warn you that some of this post is dark, but if I’ve done my job, hopefully it will make some sense when you get to the end.

Many years ago, I was lucky enough to be able to study at Trinity College in Dublin.  Having already earned my BA in psychology, I was at Trinity to do some graduate work.  I had this incredible tutor who not only taught me, but also allowed me to shadow him at his job at a children’s clinic.  He was working with families who had significant challenges, like a four year old girl who had a metabolic condition that was so severe that if her food intake was not managed to the finest detail, she could die.  She was a really smart girl who had learned how to use this situation to her advantage and had become a tyrant worse than Veruca Salt.  She cursed like a sailor too!

Wrap Dress in Ireland

But by far, my tutor’s favorite client was a nine year old boy named Graeme.  He was a sweetheart who had some developmental delays that his family was trying to come to terms with.  One afternoon, Graeme’s family dropped him off at a video game arcade.  It breaks my heart to tell you that he was taken from the arcade into an alley by a pedophile and molested.  Here’s the part where words fail me.  How can I possibly describe the utter devastation that followed.  After many re-writes, I’ve decided not to even try.  For Graeme and his family, their lives became permanently bisected into “before” and “after”.  My tutor, well, he was so distraught that he couldn’t even teach me anymore and pretty much told me to stop showing up.

Wrap Dress in Ireland

For reasons that are too personal and too complicated to explain here, the whole thing was more than I could handle at the time.  And although I didn’t realize it fully then, that event was the end of my pursuit of a career in psychology.  I looked for an escape and found it in a literature class that focused on Oscar Wilde.  We read everything by Wilde—his novel, his plays, his essays.  It was while reading Lady Windermere’s Fan that I encountered one of Wilde’s more famous lines, “We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars”.  And like all universal truths, when you hear it, it resonates.

Wrap Dress in Ireland

I could write pages and pages on what Lord Darlington was thinking and feeling when he said that line, but the truth is that you don’t need to know the story to understand the sentiment.  We are all in this beautiful mess that we call life.  And it gets really ugly sometimes.  But, we can aspire to be better.  We can look outside of ourselves to find answers or to seek solace.  We can change our perspective.  One of my favorite pieces of advice to give to new parents is this—if your baby keeps crying after you fed them, burped them, and changed their diaper, then change rooms.  Or go outside.  Most of the time, that is all it takes.  

Wrap Dress in Ireland

In a way that’s exactly what I did when I stopped studying psychology and jumped into that literature class.  I was still grappling with life issues, it’s just that I was doing it through a different lens.  Oscar Wilde was certainly no stranger to tragedy and some of the themes we covered were difficult emotional territory.  But for whatever reason, I could process what happened to Graeme and what happened to me through the study of literature.  So, at a time when I was in a foreign country away from the support of family and friends, it was Oscar Wilde who held me and comforted me.  To this day, my favorite photograph of him hangs in my home.  And now my favorite quote is stitched on my dress.  It’s a reminder that even in the darkest times, I can always look up and be guided by the light of the stars.

Wrap Dress in Ireland

Pattern, Alabama Chanin Wrap Dress, Build a Wardrobe 2017

Fabric, Alabama Chanin Medium Weight Organic Cotton Jersey

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

As you can see, we took these photographs in Ireland.  We had an amazing time and it was so great to be back there after all this time.  The dress is a pattern from Alabama Chanin’s Build a Wardrobe 2017 collection.  I had been wanting to stitch the Oscar Wilde quote for quite some time, but needed to find the right garment to do it on.  It took a bit of planning to get the scale of the words right, but I’m happy with how it turned out.  I used embroidery floss to chain-stitch the words and I used bugle beads, chop beads, and sequins to make the stars.  I also stitched smaller stars along the sleeve hem.  And as in all Alabama Chanin garments I’ve made, the entire dress is hand sewn.

Next up will be the first garment that I’m making in a little mini-collection that I’ve envisioned.  Most of the patterns are going to be drafted by me, so it may take me awhile!  Until then, be well everyone!

Wrap Dress in Ireland

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // alabama chanin, Build a Wardrobe 2017, couture sewing, hand sewing, Ireland, Irish Castle, Oscar Wilde, Wrap Dress

Black and White, and Red All Over

10.23.2017 by Tracey //

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Hello Everybody! Long time, no see. When I was trying to figure out what to write, I was thinking about all the reasons that I could list that would explain the big gap since my last post. I started to mentally scroll through my excuses, and almost immediately I thought of a long-time family friend who once commissioned my sister for a painting. When he called to check in about her progress, she proceeded to tell him why the painting wasn’t finished, to which he replied, “I don’t want to hear about your problems. This is business.” What is lost in reading this, is that this man is one of the funniest people I know, and his delivery of this line was made with the most perfect comedic precision. It’s a line that we imitate and repeat frequently in our family, indicating, yeah, we’ve all got problems, now get on with it. And we always laugh when we say it.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Thinking about our family friend calls to mind the many times that we attended New Orleans Saints football games in his Superdome suite. Many of those games were during the “Aints” era when we couldn’t win a game to save our life! In the midst of our collective depression about our repeated failures, our group would be zinging some of the most hilarious lines anyone has ever heard.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Now I know losing a football game is not the end of the world. But humor has helped me to process bigger tragedies as well. A few years ago, my grandfather passed away and it was a particularly difficult loss for me. But I can’t think about his funeral and how hard that day was without also thinking about my brother’s eulogy which was so funny that it actually elicited whoops from the congregation.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Like Truvy says in Steel Magnolias, “Laughter through tears is my favorite emotion”. There’s something about the contrast between those feelings that sharpens them both and somehow makes them even more meaningful. Life is complicated and I know I’m going to feel bad some of the time. The only way to get through it is to go ahead and feel it completely. But when I can also laugh in the middle of it, what a great gift that is.

Sadie Chiffon Dress

Pattern, Tessuti Sadie Slip Dress

Fabric, Silk Chiffon, B&J Fabric

Photography by Santiago Vanegas

Now let’s talk about this dress. One of my goals of 2017 was to make a garment out of silk chiffon. Nothing like trying chiffon for the first time and cutting on the bias. The good news was that I could use the stripes of the print to stay on grain. The bad news is that I would need to match the side seams and create a perfect chevron shape with the meeting of those stripes. I did a pretty decent job with the matching, but I’ve got one side seam that is ripply (is that a word?) and one side that’s smooth. Learning curve! The dress pattern is the Tessuti Sadie Slip Dress and I am in love with this pattern. I made a size small with no adjustments except for fiddling with the length of the straps. Just to jazz things up, I added the ruffle at the bottom. The ruffle strip has a stay stitch at the bottom, hidden in the print pattern, and left unhemmed so the fabric will unravel a bit the more I wear it. I left the top part of the ruffle with a raw edge as well for a deconstructed look.

Sadie Chiffon Ruffle

In closing, my heart goes out to those who are dealing with the aftermath of hurricanes, earthquakes, or fires. It’s been an intense season of natural disasters and a particularly difficult time for many people. My thoughts and prayers are with you.

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // Chiffon, Sadie Slip Dress, silk, Slip Dress, Tessuti Patterns

Waves

07.10.2017 by Tracey //

Sunny Day Dress

As I sit down to write this post, my daughter is on my mind. First of all, I have to tell you that she is the one who made these amazing photos. Didn’t she do a great job? I’m proud of my girl. But I’m thinking about her for another reason as well. You see, not only is Sienna a great photographer, she is also a wonderful writer. Not too long ago, she started a story about a dog named Bacon and his sidekick, a cat called Tuna. You have to believe me when I tell you that this story is off-the-chart brilliant. I know, I’m biased. But it really is just so darn good!

Sunny Day Dress

Halfway through the work, Sienna found out that she would not be able to use her story to complete an assignment, so the writing has been left unfinished. I’m doing what I can to encourage her to tell the rest of the story, mostly because I’m dying to find out what happens! But also because there is such value in seeing a project all the way through to the end.

Sunny Day Dress

I don’t know why many of us start things we don’t finish, but there’s definitely some psychology behind this phenomenon that I am sure somebody has studied somewhere. I have been creating art and sewing garments long enough to recognize some very distinct patterns in my process of making. In the beginning, I’m filled with enthusiasm and the potential for greatness. By the time I reach the middle of the project, I know for sure that it sucks.

Sunny Day Dress

Fortunately for me, I’ve managed to push myself to finish enough times that I have also experienced the reward of getting it done. Sometimes I’m happy with the result and sometimes not so much, but I’m always satisfied that I saw it all the way through. It’s so important to know my creative rhythm because when I hit that point when I’m convinced that what I’m working on is an abomination, I know that I’ve got to ride that wave.  I’ve been in that place before.  I can’t stop those feelings from coming but I can let myself be carried right on through those sabotaging thoughts and hopefully arrive on more solid footing.

Sunny Day Dress

So, now’s the time that I confess that this dress sat unfinished for about two years. I reached a certain point and put it away. I don’t even really know why. I think I convinced myself that the dress didn’t suit me. Or it was going to look bad on me. Or who knows what nonsense I was telling myself at the time. But I hung it up, with an unfinished lining and an unfinished hem. And there it sat, getting completely ignored.

Sunny Day Dress

If it weren’t for a beach vacation on the horizon, it may not have ever gotten finished. But I didn’t want to pass up the chance to photograph one of my garments on the beach and I did not have anything close enough to being done. Then I remembered this dress. It took me an afternoon to finish. Can you believe I gave up so close to the finish line? And I do not know what my problem was with this sweet little dress! I like it just fine.

Sunny Day Dress

I may or may not convince my daughter to continue writing her adventures of Bacon and Tuna. I’m going to give it my best shot. But maybe someone who is out there reading this will be motivated to dust off that UFO (unfinished object) you’ve got stashed away somewhere and let it see the light of day, so that the rest of us can enjoy it too.

Sunny Day Dress

Pattern, Sunny Day Dress by Jamie Christina

Fabric, Liberty Lawn

Photography by Sienna Vanegas

Beach
Image by Santiago Vanegas

Categories // Dresses, Garments Tags // liberty fabric, Sundress

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Hello

I'm on a journey to become a fashion designer but I've got some stuff to learn along the way.

Featherstitch Avenue is my creative journal where any artistic experiment is fair game.

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